South America is becoming quite the hot spot for travelers and for good reason – the continent has so much to offer in terms of beautiful cities filled with amazing architecture, landscapes that can fulfill even the most adrenaline seeking junkie, food that is a gastronomical paradise, and people that are some of the most welcoming and passionate about their culture that I’ve ever met. So naturally, I had to hop on this trend.
I had traveled to Peru with my parents several years ago but this was the first trip I booked to South America with my cousin. It was a last-minute decision to visit Colombia but was one of the best travel decisions I’ve made.
Before visiting, people warned us about Colombia being dangerous and it being notorious for drugs, as seen in Narcos and anything linked with Pablo Escobar. Of course, Colombia’s history is laden with violence related to drugs but what we saw and experienced is an evolved nation, accepting and moving past its history with people who are incredibly passionate about their culture and history and eager to share it with others.
Bogotá
Our first stop was the capital city of Colombia. Nestled in the Andes Mountains with an elevation of over 8000 feet, Bogotá provides impressive views. The city is massive and spread out till the eye can see.
On our first day in the city, we took a walking tour of the city center and the La Candeleria neighborhood. We walked through Bolivar Square, the most prominent area of the city. This area was filled with families and couples enjoying the afternoon with many vendors. It’s a great place for people-watching.
The Candeleria neighborhood is known for its street art, in particular murals by local artists. It is also very lively with people playing music, dancing, playing games, in general, just enjoying life which was such a great vibe to walk through and observe. We did partake in the fun and were welcomed with open arms by locals. It was great to see locals and tourists mingling; I definitely was able to practice my Spanish a lot.
The food in Bogotá deserves a special shout out. I don’t think I had a bad meal in this city, whether it was local vendors or a fancy restaurant. Also, the diversity of the cuisines here was astonishing. Not only did we have local Colombian cuisine, but I had some of the best sushi here too. If you visit, prepare your stomach for the amazing food without breaking the bank.
We also spent half a day visiting Montserrate, a mountain overlooking the city with a church set at the top. You can take a funicular or cable car up which provides amazing views of the city below or you can hike up. With the high elevation, we opted for the cable car. Other than the church and several vendors selling food and some local goods, there’s not a lot to see. But the views of the city are worth making the journey up. It is slightly crowded, especially on the weekends, but I could have sat there for a while just admiring the city and the surrounding mountains.
Of course, Colombia, and South America in general, is famous for its nightlife and Bogotá delivers. We had an amazing night, albeit a late one since people, especially locals, don’t go out till 10 or 11 PM, dancing at clubs and talking to locals (in my broken Spanish). Colombians know how to dance and we picked up some pointers.
Medellín
Our next stop was in Medellín, one of the greenest cities I’ve visited. The rainforest is seamlessly integrated with the modern buildings and man-made parks creating a feeling that you’re living and walking through an urban wilderness. It’s a unique experience.
Medellín is quite popular with expats and we met many digital nomads from all over the world, but particularly the United States and Europe. Its popularity is for good reason, not only being beautiful and having a great nightlife, Medellín has a lot to offer in terms of outdoor activities, coffee shops and restaurants, and cultural activities.
Being in Colombia, we had to explore all the coffee shops. Our favorite was one recommended by our walking tour guide, it’s nestled in an industrial part of town and a little difficult to find, but once you enter, you’re transported to coffee heaven. It’s called Distrito Cafetero. Not only is the coffee amazing, but the food is not to be missed. We had one of the best seafood risotto here. You can also buy coffee beans here to take home with you.
We did a walking tour of the city center and the guide provided us a good history of the area and also allowed us to try different local foods. My favorite was the sugar cane juice, it was so refreshing. Our second walking tour was of the El Poblado district, an area known for murals by local artists showcasing political and social change. This area is also popular for its food and nightlife and bars. We had some of the best empanadas at a local shop here – Empanadas El Machetico. They only have one item on the menu but we loved the empanadas so much that we didn’t even get a chance to take a picture.
We also attended Gringo Tuesdays at Vintrash, one of the bars in the El Poblado neighborhood where people from all around the world come for a language exchange and a chance to meet new people. This was awesome and a lot of fun. We met and talked to people from New York, Europe, and of course locals. I’ll be honest, I didn’t really practice my Spanish as much as I hoped to here, but it was nice that most people spoke English.
The last walking tour we did was of Communa 13, a neighborhood now associated with vibrant street performances, graffiti, and a strong sense of community by the locals. This area has a rocky history associated with the drug cartel and Pablo Escobar but now is one of the most visited areas by tourists. Walking through the streets you can see all kinds of graffiti and murals. They are absolutely breathtaking. A lot of them are a commentary on the social and/or political climate and our tour guide explained each one and answered our questions. You can truly see the passion the locals have for their country and culture. We also visited Pueblito Paisa which is at the top of a hill in the center of Medellín. Not only do you get to tour a replica of a turn of the century town but you get beautiful views of the city.
Cartagena
Our final stop on our trip was Cartagena, probably the most well-known city in Colombia. We stayed in the walled Old Town which is filled with 16th century architecture – lively town squares and colorful colonial buildings.
Outside the walled city, there is the Getsemani district. The streets are filled with vivid murals and lively music and of course the aromas of freshly made arepas, pita-like breads made of cornmeal and then stuffed with different fillings, from the numerous food stalls.
We took a walking tour of this district and our guide talked us through the history of the different murals. We also learned about the local people and the history behind this neighborhood when colonists had occupied the main city.
The food and nightlife scenes are another level here, especially in the old town. One of the nights, we went to Shakira’s favorite restaurant in Cartagena – La Vitrola. We were able to get a table without reservations, but I’d recommend making one, it was packed and for good reason. The food was amazing and the service is top notch. Make sure to get the empanadas, lobster ravioli, and coconut pie and thank me later. Forewarning, people dress up for dinner here (compared to Bogotá and Medellín) so however much you want to wear shorts or jeans because of the heat, I’d stick to something a little more formal.
We also went to Alquimico which came on the World’s 50 Best Bars in 2023 and the cocktails and vibes met the hype. We had some refreshing mojitos while exploring and people watching on the multi-floor bar.
Since Cartagena is a beach town, it’s no surprise that seafood is the highlight at most restaurants. Give La Cevicheria a try for some fresh ceviche.
Some other places that stood out were El Barón which is a small cocktail bar that makes a mean espresso martini and Ana Restaurante Bar. We initially stopped at both for just drinks but ended up getting dinner too and we have no regrets. El Barón blew us away with their popcorn chicken and fries. It was the perfect food to snack on with their cocktails.
We also took a day trip out to Playa Blanca and Baru. We booked this through Marriott’s excursions, but if we had to do it again, we would just Uber or book a taxi. The beach time, in our opinion, was not worth it since there weren’t any activities and vendors were constantly trying to sell you something. The second part of the tour was to the National Aviary of Colombia – which is what we were really there for. I had never been to an aviary before but was blown away by the diversity of birds they had, all in a sprawling outdoor facility. There’s a one-way pathway that takes you through the different exhibits and takes about two hours. We saw flamingos, macaws, parrots, peacocks, parakeets, toucans, and an Andes condor. The best part was that you are able to walk among the birds – it was a different experience to be so close to these animals and to see some of their personalities. The macaws in particular were so curious and playful. To see the more dangerous birds, you enter their habitat in a cage. I would definitely recommend visiting the aviary. I don’t think there’s anywhere that has the diversity and is so well-maintained like this place in the world.
Overall, Colombia is a beautiful country that is highly underrated. We experienced the cities and the rich culture of this place, but next time I’d like to explore the mountains and the natural beauty of Colombia – just an excuse to go back!
If you’d like any more information or have questions about my time in Colombia, feel free to drop a comment or reach out to me on Instagram!
