When visiting the Yucatán peninsula, most people flock to Cancun and the well-known all-inclusive resorts but the state’s capital, Mérida, is its underrated sister. Only an hour away from the beach, Mérida is dotted with beautiful colonial architecture, amazing restaurants showcasing traditional Yucatán cuisine, and is woven with a rich history.
The Yucatán peninsula was home to the Mayan empire with the most famous city from that time now one of the wonders of the ancient world – Chichén Itzá. There are also other ancient cities that are as equally well-preserved and are well worth the visit.
This was our second time visiting Mérida. The last time we visited was about 11 years ago and it was amazing to see how the city has developed, especially with the growth of expats settling down here. We visited for a wedding but were of course able to squeeze in sightseeing in between wedding events.
What We Saw
Since we were here for an Indian wedding, we had to fit in any sightseeing we wanted to do in between all the wedding events. With the heat and humidity, we were selective in what we wanted to do.
The first day we walked along the most picturesque street in Mérida – Paseo de Montejo. This is part of the residential area of Mérida and is lined with beautiful colonial-era bungalows. Some have been converted to offices or businesses, which has helped preserve these historic homes. The street is colorful and at night comes alive with street vendors, tourists, and locals taking an evening stroll.
Another day, we walked over to the city center – Plaza Principal de Mérida. This popular square is surrounded by historic buildings, including one of the largest cathedrals in Central and South America. There is also an old palace that’s been converted into a government building that’s open to the public. This palace houses some imposing murals detailing the plight of the Mayan people at the hands of the Spanish. The plaza is filled with vendors with great artwork and local goods.
Once the wedding was over, we dove into some day trips to explore the surrounding ancient ruins. The first day trip was out to Chichén Itzá. We booked a private car with a tour guide so had control over how long we spent on certain activities. Chichén Itzá is an impressive site. The most iconic monument is the pyramid, which is actually three pyramids built on top of each other. This is the first thing you see as you enter the site.
The ancient city also has other temples, one of which honors the military generals. There’s also a large cenote where ritual sacrifices were performed and a ball court, one of the largest and best-preserved courts of Central America. I’d highly recommend hiring a tour guide as they can explain different symbols that are significant to the Mayan culture and the use of each historic site within the city.
As part of this private tour, we stopped by a cenote after exploring Chichén Itzá. The last time we visited Mérida, we didn’t get a chance to take a dip in these underground natural pools. We went to Cenote Tsukan which is almost like a spa. They had a restaurant, bar, and very clean, well-maintained facilities to enter the cenote. The cenote was absolutely breathtaking. The sun shining through the sky-light made the water sparkle. Also, there were iguanas in the rock bed surrounding the water and some small fish in the water with us.
The next day trip we took was out to the second largest Mayan archaeological site in the area – Uxmal. As you enter the site, you come upon the Pyramid of the Magician. Different from the pyramid at Chichén Itzá, this one has rounded edges, but is equally as impressive. Uxmal is a lot less crowded than Chichén Itzá making it a little easier to explore.
We explored some more pyramids on the site and some residential ruins. Be prepared to walk as Uxmal is quite spread out and requires some climbing up and down stairs. You’ll also see lots of iguanas roaming the area.
After Uxmal, we went to a chocolate factory, Choco Story. This was a unique place because it also serves as a museum for the history of chocolate, has an expansive garden showcasing local flora, and is an animal rescue.
As you walk through the garden, you learn how the Mayans used the cacao plant in ancient times and how some of the processing methods are still used to this day. We also experienced an ancient Mayan ceremony and tasted some chocolate prepared in a traditional Mayan way.
The coolest part of this place is the animal sanctuary. We saw some very energetic and playful monkeys, two majestic jaguars, and some Melipona bees. These bees are local to the area and are stingless. The honey that these bees make is unique and highly valued.
What We Ate
The food in Mérida left us speechless this time around. The first time we visited, we stuck to restaurants that were more in the touristy areas and although good, we didn’t really try local Yucatán cuisine, which is different than typical Mexican food. The Yucatán people have their own cooking methods using local ingredients and creating unique flavors and dishes.
For breakfast, we had the buffet at the hotel which had the typical continental options, but also had local dishes. My favorite was the cochinita pibil, which is a slow cooked pork dish that’s cooked underground. The pork is marinated in several spices and sour orange juice, which is local to Yucatán. This is served with either rice or bread and pickled onions and salsas.
The first night, we went to Huniik where we tried the tasting menu that explored traditional Yucatán flavors with a contemporary twist. This restaurant only seats 16 people at a time but all guests have a first-row seat to all the kitchen activities. Guests are encouraged to walk around and see the dishes being made up close. This was one of the most unique dining experiences that I’ve ever had. Not only was each dish meticulously described regarding ingredients and preparation methods but then we got to see it all made live.
Everything we had here was incredible and had some unique flavors that were totally unexpected, but in a good way. My favorite dish was a steamed trout wrapped with leaves in a roll. The fish was delicately cooked and seasoned so well. I could have probably had five of these. I also really enjoyed the venison tacos. The salsa paired with the perfectly grilled meat was spicy and smoky without being overpowering. For dessert, their blackened mango with coconut ice cream was absolutely heavenly.
The second day we went to Kuuk for lunch. This restaurant is in a historic bungalow, creating a beautiful setting for a meal. The house itself is magnificent with crown molding and old furniture and photographs artfully placed. But the drinks and food take the experience to a new level. This was my favorite place we ate at in Mérida and we tried to come back but the hours didn’t work out with the wedding events.
I started out with a mezcal drink that tasted similar to a pisco sour but with a smoky undertone. We liked this so much that my mom ordered one for herself too. For food, they start out with bread service paired with this delicious honey butter which just melts over the warm bread. They also set out a trio of salsas and each one was so good. Our favorite was the habanero, it paired well with the other dishes that we ordered.
We ordered the esquite pibinal which was similar to elote made with pibinal corn which is a brown corn local to Yucatán. We also had the scallop tostadas and beef tacos as starters. Since we were quite full at this point, we shared the grilled octopus as our main. We were full, but never too full for dessert. We couldn’t decide between the Basque cheesecake and chocolate and sesame sponge cake so got both and I’m so glad we did. Both desserts were incredible and I was in a food coma after. I washed it down with an espresso martini to wake myself up, which did the trick. As you leave the restaurant, they give you a little treat, either a homemade butter cookie, caramel popcorn, or a tamarind candy. This was such a nice touch!
Another day, before one of the big wedding events, we went to a small brunch place for an early lunch – La Libertad Centro. This was such a cute restaurant and filled with locals enjoying coffee or a mid-morning snack. We got some chilaquiles, a quesadilla smothered with a green creamy salsa and avocado, and a smoked salmon sandwich. The portions here are quite hearty and will keep you energized for all the sight-seeing.
The heat in Mérida was pretty intense, so we stopped at a sorbet place that’s been operating for over a hundred years. It’s called Dulceria and Sorbeteria Colon. We had the guava sorbet and the lime sorbet. Both were refreshing, but I preferred the guava one.
Another day, for dinner, we went to Catrin. I think these were some of the best tacos I’ve ever had. We ordered chile tacos that had the chile stuffed with a bunch of seafood and some shrimp tacos. We also had a roasted cauliflower dish and for dessert had a Mexican chocolate brownie that was perfectly gooey and topped with ice cream. The best part of this meal was the salsas they served everything with. There were five different salsas, each with a unique flavor and using different ingredients. The combination with the tacos was amazing.
Our last night in Mérida, we went to El Lucero. Unfortunately, they weren’t offering their full menu but we had some light snacks. We ordered the guacamole and a couple orders of the shrimp tacos, which were delicious.
Overall, Mérida is a great place to visit for the historical and archaeological sites and for the up and coming food scene.
If you’d like any more information or have questions about our time in Mérida, feel free to drop a comment or reach out to me on Instagram!
